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Directions For Use

Running-in  -  Precautions Before Starting  -  STARTING  -  Stopping  -  Bleeding The Fuel System

In order to help you make the best use of the engine’s good operating properties we have prepared the
following advice for its care and maintenance.
Make a habit of listening to the engine every now and then while it is running.
If it runs unevenly or badly the reason should be traced at once and the fault remedied.
If the oil consumption has become abnormally high or if there are other indications of wear it is usually
sufficient to give the engine a thorough overhaul. This overhaul should be performed by a repair shop or
specially trained mechanic. All that is required otherwise is a certain amount of preventative checking.
This checking should be done by the operator himself. No special tools are required. Some advice should
on this care and attention, as well as engine starting, is given below.
Correct lubrication is of extreme importance, ensuring trouble-free running and long life. Always keep
the fuel and oil, the engine and its filters quite clean. This prevents foreign particles from getting into the engine and causing abnormal wear. Refill the fuel tank in good time; this prevents air lock in the fuel
system. It is inadvisable to race an old engine or put it under full load immediately after start. Check that
all nuts are properly tightened.

RUNNING IN

The running in period of an engine is the most important part of its entire life. During the first 50 hours of
this period the engine must be run carefully, This is done to entire that the cylinder walls pistons and
bearing surfaces acquire the hare bright surface that provides maximum length of life.
Do not subject the engine to long hard loads during the running- in period. On the other hand, however
the engine should not be run all too slowly as the piston rings might then stick and cause high fuel consumption, Although 50 hours running marks the end f the running-in period, it is still inadvisable to
operate the engine under heavy load for long period the engine lubrication oil must be changed more often than is subsequently normal, Change the first time after 30 hours, at the same time cleaning the oil
sump strainer and draining off any sediment from the lubricant cleaner. Change again at the 100-hour mark and then regularly every 200 hours.
Every time the oil is changed, drain the lubricant cleaner to avoid mixing new and old oil. Never rinse the
engine out with flushing oil; bearing pressures in a diesel engine are too high to permit the use of such oil.



Before delivery, all engines are run on the factory test bench/ These tests show that all fits are satisfactory
and we therefore disclaim all responsibility for any piston or bearing seizing caused by neglectful
running-in etc. Filter all fuel before filling.
Absolute cleanliness is essential in connection with all work on the diesel engine, particularly the
injection pump and injectors.


PRECAUTIONS BEFORE STARTING

Make sure that the cooling system is quite full. Use only pure water, preferably rain water which is the
best coolant. The filler cap is of pressure type and it is therefore necessary to exercise caution if it has to
be removed when the engine is warm. Turn the cap slowly anti clockwise until resistance is felt. Any
steam will then blow off through the overflow pipe and the cap may then be removed without risk. Never fill up with cold water when the engine is hot, this can cause cracking. Check that the cooling system
bottom valve is open. Check also at regular intervals that the strainer in the coolant inlet is clean and free
from impurities that might clog the inlet and interfere with the cooling. After the engine has started, check
the salt water discharge to make sire that the salt water is circulating properly.

Fig 33.

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2) Check oil level in engine and reverse-reduction gearbox. The level should be between the two marks on the
dipsticks. Always use diesel lubricant “ For Service DG” when changing or topping up.
If oil consumption has brought the level to the lower mark, top up with new oil. Before the level is checked the
engine must have stood idle long enough for the oil to run down into the sump.

Fig 34. Checking Engine oil level.

3) Check that there is fuel in the tank. Always use clean fuel and take care to prevent dirt from getting into the
tank when filling. Also check, every now and then, that the breather holes in the cap are not clogged.

Fig 35.

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STARTING

Electric starting
1. Turn staring key (to close circuit through starting switch). Charging indicator lamp on instrument panel lights.
2. Advance speed control lever about ¾.
3. Press in start button.
4. Release start button.
5. In cold weather, press in cold-start button before trying to start. Note that this does not apply to the three-cylinder engine, which is fitted with Bosch injection pump. For this engine please see instructions under “Starting in cold weather” Page 43

WARNING.
If the engine does not start at the first attempt, both the engine and the starter must be
stopped before a new attempt is made. Otherwise the starter motor and ring gear teeth may be damaged.


Hand Starting
Position 1. Position of decompression lever when engine is running. Decompression device not in use
Position 2. Decompression device holds open all exhaust valves except that of first cylinder in which compression is obtained.
Position 3. No compression in any of cylinders. All exhaust valves depressed.


Hand Starting Procedure as follows:
1. Set decompression lever at engine front end on position 2, fig.36. On the four-cylinder engine, which is fitted
with two decompression levers (one for each cylinder block), the front lever is set on position 2 and the rear on
position 3.
2. Advance hand control on injection pump governor about ¾.
3. Press in cold-start button on governor. (Does not apply to three-cylinder engine, which is fitted with Bosch
injection pump)
 

4. Turn crankshaft with starting handle until there is compression in the first cylinder. The crank should be
applied so that its handle is on the way up at this moment.
5. Pull round steadily until compression resistance has just lightened; at that moment the piston has passed the
T.D.C. and this crankshaft has practically two revolutions to go before there is again compression in the
cylinder.
6. Crank two powerful turns to obtain compression and ignition in the first cylinder. As soon as ignition is
obtained, quickly return the decompression lever to position 1; the engine will then work on all cylinders

The engine can also be hand started as follows:
1. Set the decompression lever on position 3; all exhaust valves are then depressed and there will will be no
compression in any of the cylinders.
2. Advance the speed control lever ¾.
3 Give 6-7 powerful turns with the crank to attain sufficient rotational speed.
4. Quickly return the decompression lever to position 1 to obtain compression and ignition in the cylinders. Run
the engine a few minutes with the reverse-reduction gear in neutral. In cold weather the lubricating oil is so
viscous at the start that it must be warmed up before it can pass quickly enough through the oil passages to the
pistons and bearings; otherwise the engine may seize.
Check oil pressure as soon as the engine has started. Lowest permissible pressure is 28 lb/sq.in. (2 kg/sq.cm).
Make a habit of checking the oil pressure every now and then; it should be between 40 and 60 lbs/sq.in. (3-4 kg/sq.cm.).
Check coolant temperature when engine has been running a while. It should be between 160 and 170 deg F
(70-80 deg C), which is the best working temperature for the engine.
Do not forget to make sure that the charging indicator lamp goes out when the engine starts. This shows that
the generator is supplying current. If the lamp fails to go out, something is wrong.

Fig 36.

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STOPPING
Stop the engine by moving the injection pump stop lever backwards to the stop position and holding it there
until the engine no longer turns over.
Break the circuit by turning the key in the starting switch when the engine has stopped. If this is not done the
battery will discharge.
If the engine is to stand idle for a longer period or if there is a danger of frost, all cooling water should be




drained off. Turn off the bottom cock and drain the salt water from the coolant pump, pipe lines and heat
exchanger (4, fig. 17 and 18). On the three-cylinder engine salt water must also be drained from the exhaust
manifold (8, fig. 17).



Fresh water that does not contain anti-freeze must also be drained off whenever there is a danger of frost. To
drain, first loosen the cap on the heat exchanger, otherwise some of the water might remain in the cooling system and damage in cases of frost. Fresh water is drained from the engine through a cock on the engine
block (9. fig. 17 and 18) and, on the four-cylinder engine, also through a cock on the exhaust manifold (8, fig.18)
. Fresh water in the heat exchanger is drained through cock 8, fig.2, and the cock on inlet bend, 9 fig. 4.

STARTING IN COLD WEATHER
If the temperature is in the neighbourhood of or below 32 deg F (0 deg C), starting should be facilitated as
follows:
Three-cylinder engine
When the engine is to be stopped, set the governor hand control lever on the idling position before pulling out
the stop control. As soon as the engine has stopped, push in the stop control and then advance the hand
control lever again about ¾.
This procedure when the engine and injection pump are worm and the oil is thin, ensures certain engagement
of the automatic cold-start device in the injection pump governor. The governing rod in the pump is then
pushed forward past the normal stop and the engine receives an extra portion of fuel at the starting instant.
Four-cylinder engine
Press in the cold-start button. This pushes the pump governing rod past the normal stop and the engine
receives an extra portion of fuel at the starting instant. Note that the speed control lever must be advanced about half way before the button is pressed in. Under no circumstances whatever may the button be locked in
the pressed-in position once the engine has started; the amount of fuel injected will then be so great that it can
cause serious damage to the engine.

Fig 37.

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Disengage the engine when starting. It will then turn over easier and permit a higher starting motor speed.
At exceptionally low temperatures it is advisable to store the battery on warm premises if the engine is to
stand idle for any length of time. Refit the battery just before starting; it is then warm and can provide
maximum power.

WARNING
Never put the engine under heavy load immediately after start. Failure to warm up at low r.p.m. and light load
subjects the engine to abnormal stresses. This is because the oil is so viscous when it is cold that it cannot pass
quickly enough through the fine passages to the pistons and bearings. There is, of course, also a danger of the
engine seizing under these conditions.


BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM
If the engine is new, if the fuel tank has been run dry or if air has got into the fuel system in some way or other,
the system must be bled before the engine can be started.

Fig 38.

1. Bleed the large fine filter first. Open the bleeder screw on the filter and work the hand pump until fuel free from air bubbles flows out at the vent.

2. Close the screw and open instead the corresponding screw on the injection pump. Pump with the hand pump again until fuel free from bubbles flows out. When the screw has been closed again the engine is ready to start. The pressure pipes can, of course, also be bled, but a quick start can usually be obtained
without going to this trouble.

Fig 39.

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