=93Know what=20 I=92d like to do?=94

What an=20 innocuous statement to start a whole new experience. The only possible = response=20 was, of course, =93No, what?=94

=93I want to=20 buy a boat and see the river from the inside=94

So started=20 weeks, months and many miles of travelling looking for that boat. No way = was I=20 ready for canoes, kayaks or tinnies =96 not for 2-3 months of travelling = and=20 living on the river. Nor were houseboats an option =96 forget about the = cost =96=20 some of them even had tiled bathrooms for Pete=92s sake! That meant = housework, not=20 holiday! There was a couple of tempting craft, but nothing quite right.=20 Eventually, at Tailem Bend, we found it =96 nothing at all like what we = had been=20 looking for. It was a 30ft 70 year old solid timber ketch, in a previous = life it=20 had been a fishing boat and had been converted to a river boat full of=20 character. The interior was very basic and masculine =96 that would have = to be=20 fixed to become more comfortable for extended = living.

We had to=20 sail her back to Goolwa to re-fit ready for the big trip. Our first sail = was=20 down to Pomanda Point (at the entrance to Lake Alexandrina) where we moored = amongst the=20 reeds for the night. Liz at the controls, Brian at the bow ready to drop = anchor=20 =96 =93Anchors away, go into reverse [to stop]=94

=93Stop!!=94 = =93Push the gear lever down, I said = push it=20 down!!=94

=93If I push=20 it any further it will go through the deck=94

What the=20 =85=85? Brian dives into the cabin, lifts the floor to discover that the = nut holding=20 the linkage in the gear lever had come adrift. Replace the nut and = secure with=20 some gaffer tape. That=92ll have to be fixed.

Calm,=20 collected Brian had some difficulty sleeping that night, it was = beautifully calm=20 and moonlight. Come 9pm and it was =93We could sail across the lake = tonight=94 &nbs= p; =20 =93Forget it=94

11pm :=20 =93It=92s a beaut night for sailing, we could go now=94 =20 =93Go back to bed=94

1am :=20 =93Can=92t we go now?=94 = =93Go back to=20 sleep=94

3am :=20 =93But..=94 &nbs= p; =20 =93No!!=94

5am : =93OK=20 you win=94

We break=20 out into the lake and make our way across =96 2 hours of darkness before = the sun=20 comes up. 40minutes short of Sturt Point (the =91end=92 of the lake) a = new drama.=20 The noise from the motor changes and we start slowing down. Once more = into the=20 cabin and up comes the floor =96 this time the prop shaft is not = turning! A bolt=20 holding 2 sections of shaft together has sheared off. A new bolt & = more=20 gaffer tape and we were soon under way again. That=92ll have to be=20 fixed.

The galley=20 refit is to include installing our old faithful Chescold camping fridge = =96=20 whoops, it=92s bigger than the cabin door =96 how do we fix=20 that?

The next=20 14 months were full of things that had to be fixed =96 maybe we have = some=20 masochistic leanings, but we actually enjoyed the process. Come = September 2005=20 and D(eparture) day was upon us. Was everything fixed? Of course not, = but we=20 were going anyway on Wednesday 14^th. Come the day and that = old=20 faithful Chescold fridge decided not to work =96 so our first day saw = our first=20 drama of the trip.

Eventually,=20 at 5.05pm, after purchasing a new fridge, we were away and heading for = Clayton.=20 Next morning, on the tail end of a strong wind warning pushing right up = our=20 stern, we almost surfed across the lake. Rounding Pomanda Point we were = faced=20 with a slalom course through fishing buoys =96 buoys we had not seen in = the dark=20 on our previous trip!

Vegetation

The=20 vegetation along the length of the river was ever changing and quite=20 enthralling. At our speed (averaging about 9 KpH) we were able to see = details=20 that are just a blur at normal driving speed. Until we reached = Murray = Bridge we were in the = =91internet=92 =96 WWW=20 (Wall to Wall Willows). Not being a botanist (or even a half = knowledgeable=20 gardener) there did appear to be 2 very different types. Being early = September=20 the trees had lost all their leaves and we could see the branch = structures,=20 returning in November the leaves were in full growth and were obviously=20 different. As we headed north and the days warmed up, the familiar = vibrant green=20 of the willows contrasted with the grey-green of the native vegetation, = and as=20 the concentration of willows was not as extreme as down south, they were = quite=20 attractive.

The=20 eucalypts are amazing. We have all seen fallen trees where the branches = become=20 new trees, and the burnt trees that re-sprout within days of a fire. But = along=20 the river we also saw new seedlings growing within the protection of old = stumps,=20 trees leaning out from the bank at almost impossible angles, anchored by = their=20 amazing root systems. We saw those roots exposed by erosion =96 many = covering the=20 ground in a circumference much larger than their canopy; others = appearing to=20 stand on =93tippy toes=94, so hollowed out that there was a =91cave=92 = of up to a metre=20 or more clearly visible beneath the trunk. There were seedlings of = multiple=20 sizes growing on sandbars and rocky reefs =96 it was very strange to see = many of=20 these seedlings submerged in the water thanks to the years increase in = water=20 flow. The rain, and subsequent increased flow, also caused many mature = =91dead=92=20 trees to sprout new growth =96 many of these trees had been leafless for = several=20 years.

In the=20 past there must have been even larger trees than are seen today. = Throughout the=20 riverland we would come across stumps of trees whose diameters were = extremely=20 large, often we would also see fallen trees that had obviously been cut = down,=20 but not taken away. These tree felling is not only from the early days = of=20 settlement, where wood was the only building material available, but = also from=20 the days of steam paddleships and most recently from World War 2 when = detainees=20 (mainly Italian but some Japanese and German) were set to work = harvesting trees=20 for the state=92s use.

Man=92s crops (vineyards and = orchards) were=20 not readily visible to o boat of our elevation, it is completely the = opposite=20 when you travel the roads in the river area. However, particularly close = to=20 Mildura, the smell of citrus was overwhelming on some=20 days.

Pink,=20 purple and yellow wildflowers were prolific. One, the Darling Pea, has a = legend=20 attached to it =96 if you pick a flower from a flowering bush you will, = one day,=20 return to the River Darling. Although the pea grows throughout the upper = Murray region I=20 did pick one whilst on the River Darling so I look forward to returning = =96=20 hopefully in the not too distant future.

Cliffs

One of the=20 most recognizable and marketed features of the Murray is that of Big Bend East. This = bend is=20 just upstream from Nildottie and, like Ulura, we found that it changed = colour at=20 different times of the day. It is, however, only one of many hundreds of = cliffs,=20 both large and small, that populate the length of the river. The colours = of the=20 river cliffs range from pale cream, almost white, to the deepest of reds = =96 some=20 look almost like ice-cream with topping (or iced cakes) =96 creamy pale = below with=20 a rosy topping. Some are smooth and rounded, others sharp and angular = and still=20 more have become honey-combed over the years. The softer limestone = cliffs are=20 home to numerous corellas that dig their holes into the cliff face. They = look=20 quite comically scruffy with their white bodies and dirty yellow heads = and=20 backs, covered in limestone dust.

Cliffs=20 just upstream from Loxton were =91weeping=92 when we went past. The = recent rains had=20 percolated down through the limestone, seeping out of the cliff face to = drip=20 like rain into the water below. When we returned some weeks later all = signs of=20 moisture had disappeared, leaving only a discolouration on the cliff = face. The=20 seepage at this point must have had a high mineral content, it had = eroded and=20 old iron ladder hanging on the cliff face =96 a corrosion that was not = that=20 evident on iron artefacts elsewhere on the river.

Many of=20 the cliff faces were dotted with old pipes that farmers had, in past = years, laid=20 to irrigate their crops and provide household water. Their daring in = installing=20 these pipes is unbelievable, how they were able to complete these = projects is=20 beyond me =96 the pipes would drop, completely vertically, a hundred = feet or so to=20 the water=92s edge =96 and were supported by a variety of struts, etc. = In one spot=20 they had even bored at an angle from the top of the cliff, down through = the=20 rock, to emerge just above the water line where the pump was then=20 installed.

Just=20 upstream from X is Y, where aboriginal carvings are evident. This area = has been=20 fenced off and looks to be undergoing preservation/study/educational = work. We=20 were not able to get a very close look at the site, but what we could = see made=20 us wish to see, and learn, more.

There are=20 numerous signs along the cliff faces =96 some warning about the dangers = of=20 anchoring to close, others showing past flood levels. It=92s one thing = to see=20 these flood levels against man made structures, another thing entirely = to see=20 them on the cliff faces. You need to understand that the water depth = level in=20 the river can vary from a few centimetres (there are parts that you can = walk=20 across and not get you knees wet) to tens of meters. Where you come = across a=20 cliff on a bend there is usually deep water (and narrow river and fast = flow). We=20 actually went through one such bend where the hull speed of the boat = increased=20 by 30+% (without touching the throttle) and the boat was very reluctant = to=20 answer the helm. To add to this depth of river, and strength of flow, = the=20 additional amount of water that flowed in a flood is truly=20 breathtaking.

Native=20 Life

As the=20 deck level of Bekita is close to the water level we were denied view of = any=20 animal life beyond the banks for most of the length of the river. = Talking to=20 other people who were transversing the same area we were aware that = kangaroos=20 and emus were prolific, once again largely due to the increased = rainfall. What=20 we did see lots of were birds. Large flocks of pelicans were seen on a = daily=20 basis, as were ducks. These were relatively easy to photograph, not so = all the=20 other water birds. Swans, cormorants, pied cormorants, spoonbills, = egrets,=20 herons and darters were common, but proved very elusive to=20 photograph.

Daily we=20 would be accompanied by swallows that would =91surf=92 the air in front = of our bow=20 in a similar fashion that dolphins do to boats at sea. They would often = perch on=20 the bowspit and along the deck of our boat. I spent many an hour trying = to video=20 and photograph these cheeky birds =96 with limited = success.

Another=20 daily visitor would be a hawk, or several hawks, that would soar above = and=20 around us =96 they were impossible to photograph as they always seemed = to be in=20 direct line with the sun whenever a camera was = produced.

Often=20 heard, but rarely seen, were the kookaburras =96 every time we had a = mishap their=20 mocking laughter would ring out. I am sure they did not miss a single = mishap,=20 though I must admit their laughter (now cheerful) was also heard on = multiple=20 other occasions.

The=20 woodlands, particularly in the Murray-Sunset National=20 Park, abound with parrots, magpies, = cockatoos and=20 other native birds. As I sat on the bow of the boat the bird song was an = ever=20 present background, along with the swish of the water along the side of = the=20 boat. Brian may say that the =91kadonker, kadonker=92 of an old diesel = engine is=20 music to his ears =96 I=92ll take the birds and water any = day.

We had=20 been warned to be wary if mooring under trees, not because of the = self-pruning=20 habits of eucalypts, but because of snakes. It is not unknown for snakes = to suddenly=20 drop from overhanging branches onto boats moored below. We had no such = problem,=20 in fact the only snake we saw on the entire trip was taking a swim in = the river=20 as we sailed from Moorook =96 he was quite unconcerned as we motored=20 past.

Our only=20 annoyance, once the weather started to warm up, were the flies =96 and = they were a=20 problem all over the state, in fact they were just as bad when we = returned home=20 as they were on the trip. Mosquitoes were prevalent, but were only a = problem on=20 land, just before dusk. For some reason they did not bother us on the = boat, or=20 at night.

The 320Ks=20 from the mouth to Morgan may be dominated by =91WWW=92, shacks (not the = old=20 fashioned variety, they are now very flash, substantial houses) and = caravans,=20 but this is balanced by the stretch from Renmark to Wentworth (260Ks) of = beautiful cliffs, riverbanks and national parks with scarcely a sign of = human=20 habitation. These Victorian national parks, Murray-Sunset and = Hattah-Kulkyne,=20 are well worth a visit even if you haven=92t got a boat. There are = numerous=20 camping spots right on the river bank and on our return trip a great = many of=20 these were occupied, so obviously it is not a secret amongst the=20 Victorians.

Highlights=20 and mishaps

Large=20 numbers of people are travelling the river these days, mainly in = houseboats,=20 modern sailing craft (minus the masts), and tinnies =96 and good luck to = them.=20 However we chose an old wooden ketch, and kept the masts up =96 a = decision that=20 meant we were rarely without someone to talk to. Often we would pull = into a=20 wharf or jetty and within a very short space of time some one would spot = the=20 wooden masts, look at the boat and come over for a chat. We met some = very=20 interesting people that way, it seemed that most of them also had a love = affair=20 with boats, particularly old boats. At many of the locks the personnel = in the=20 office would come running down saying =93It=92s good to see a real boat. Such a change from = =91tin=20 sheds on pontoons=92=94, comments that made our heads swell =96 just a=20 little.

Let=92s go=20 back to the beginning and put some of the events into chronological = order. After an early start from = Clayton, a=20 fast, windy trip across the lake was followed by the normal rather = choppy=20 entrance to the river. The conditions then quietened off and we enjoyed = a=20 pleasant trip to Tailem Bend where we met the son of the previous owner = and=20 spent a pleasant hour or so showing him the changes we had made to the = boat. He=20 spoke of some of their adventures, including the start of what was = supposed to=20 be a long trip up the Murray which ended at Bow Hill when = they did in=20 the gear box. They then had to sail the boat back to Tailem Bend as they = did not=20 have an auxiliary motor. We at least have a 3-4hp air-cooled Yamaha = outboard =96=20 even if it does scream like a loud lawn mower! Why would we bother with = a second=20 motor instead of sails? Simple, although the boat is rigged as a ketch = she has a=20 round bottom and no keel which means that it only sails well with the = wind in=20 the stern (that=92s back end for all landlubbers) quarter. Wind in any = other=20 direction means you spend a lot of time saying =93Hello=94 to the = willows on the=20 bank. Any way Brian has gone over the mechanics with a fine tooth comb, = so it=92s=20 all academic anyway, right? Wrong! But that comes = later.

First=20 overnight stop is Murray Bridge town wharf, right next to = the=20 bridges. To set the tone for most of the trip there are soon locals = coming for a=20 chat. We learn that all the activity in the adjoining park is for the = Pedal Prix=20 due that weekend. Pity we could not stay we would have had a great view = of the=20 event, maybe some other year. We wonder if we will be hassled by the = =91local=20 yokels=92 but very early in the evening everyone disappears and the only = disturbance is the traffic =96 road and rail =96 across the bridges. = Next morning we=20 consider the height of our masts, and the height of the bridges =96 they = look to=20 be awfully similar, but if the previous owners got to Bow Hill, then we = should=20 be right. Very gingerly we ease our way up river, making sure we go = beneath the=20 bridge between the struts, it=92s okay we have well over a foot=20 clearance.

It=92s very=20 quiet and peaceful along this stretch of river, although we are in = =91shack and=20 houseboat alley=92. The weather is still cool and damp so all the = holiday makers=20 have yet to populate their area. = Someone is making a lot of money painting =93Keep out=94 = =93Private property=94=20 and =93Trespassers prosecuted=94 signs =96 a somewhat disappointing = aspect of the=20 explosion of more substantial constructions and recreational use of this = stretch=20 of river. The numbers of dwellings along the banks is staggering =96 = we=92re very=20 glad to be travelling whilst people are =91not at home=92 =96 it must be = mayhem during=20 the summer holidays when everyone is there. On we sail, a short stop at = Mannum=20 for lunch and we head towards Walker Flat, and our first =91bank stop=92 = of the=20 trip. Good mooring points, that are unoccupied, are fairly scarce so = when we=20 spot a =91prepared=92 area that has obviously been vacated by a = houseboat we are=20 prepared to take advantage of it. Now mooring a ketch to the bank can be = a=20 tricky manoeuvre =96 a sloping bank to accommodate the bowspit, 3 tie up = points (1=20 straight ahead, and 1 on each side) and no overhanging branches that = will foul=20 the masts and rigging are all required. Thus when Brian spots a spot = there is=20 usually only a short time to react and I need to be ready to jump ashore = with a=20 long rope to anchor us. We quickly became proficient at this =96 except = for the=20 jumping ashore bit, invariably I would end up in the water. Thankfully = as the=20 trip went on the water became warmer, or I became more immune to=20 it!

Anyway the=20 view across the river to the cliffs certainly made the dunking = worthwhile. I=20 certainly felt less =91put upon=92 the next morning when, just after a = frosty day=20 break we started off and passed teams of rowers out practising =96 now = that=92s=20 doing it hard!

Early=20 afternoon we arrive at Lock 1 =96 the rules of the river state that when = you want=20 to use a lock you give 3 toots on the horn and the lockmaster will then = proceed=20 to open the gates for you. We give the 3 toots, no reaction. Perhaps we = were too=20 far away and the lockmaster did not hear. We try again, and again. We = are now=20 too close to the lock and have to circle. We can see =91movement at the = station=92=20 for the ride on lawn mower is going round =96 quite oblivious to us. We = have on=20 board the =93River Murray Pilot=94 and =93South Australia=92s waters : An = atlas and=20 guide=94, both essential books when navigating the river. The = =91pilot=92 contains=20 charts, information and history of the river, whereas the =91atlas=92 = gives accurate=20 details of the river and surrounding landfall. They also list the radio=20 frequencies and phone numbers for each of the locks. So we try those, = still no=20 reaction. Only course of action is for me to go ashore, Brian puts the = nose up=20 to the bank and off I jump =96 resulting in wet feet of course. As I = trudge up the=20 incline the lock master eventually looks up and gives us a wave, so = without even=20 talking to him back I go. From the land these locks look to be a = reasonable=20 size, from the water they are huge, to give you some idea of the size = the=20 barrage lock at Goolwa can hold 6 boats in a tight squeeze, the lock at=20 Blanchetown has held over 40 boats during a river ramble. Our stop that = night is=20 opposite the start of the Murbpook Lagoon, once again we are looking at = a cliff,=20 but this time we tie up at a pocket handkerchief sandy beach. Thankfully = there=20 are no other boats, as the only trees to tie up at are on either = extremity of=20 the beach, and we need to use our longest ropes to reach them. It is = obviously a=20 popular spot, we had been preceded by the craft =91Wilou=92 who had = spelt the name=20 out in dead twigs along the sand. Not to be outdone Brian leaves the = name=20 =91Bekita=92 in old charcoal from past camp fires.

We sight=20 the Murray Princess tied up at the wharf, and the Proud Mary under way = as we=20 pass through Morgan. So far it had all been easy sailing, SA does it = well with=20 plenty of navigational signs to help the boaties, but now we were = approaching=20 Lock 2 which is very shallow on the down river side. A friend from = Goolwa had=20 gone through this area only a few weeks before and had bumped bottom a = few=20 times. According to the charts the preferred course is a =91crossover=92 = =96 this is=20 marked by 2 large blue signs (about 1mt square) each with a white = diagonal cross=20 on it. Boats need to sail along the bank until level with the first = sign, then=20 head directly across the river to the second sign. Stray off the = preferred=20 course and we will be in water less than a metre, and as we draw 800mm = =96 it=20 would be a tight fit. Our navigation was perfect and we had no problems = =96 at=20 this one! The wind was blowing strongly from behind as we approached the = lock,=20 this lock master was awake, and opened the gates so that we sailed = straight in.=20 Unbelievably we were the first boat he had seen for the weekend, by then = it was=20 late Sunday. No way we can make Waikerie for the night so once again we = look for=20 a mooring site, found a beauty =96 obviously developed by a local, not = only were=20 there mooring posts and a shelter, but also 240v power and even a TV = antennae!=20 We make use of the mooring but leave the developments untouched =96 just = a bit too=20 civilized for free use.

Overland=20 Corner was always a stop during road trips to the riverland, and we look = forward=20 to stopping for lunch the next day. The hotel is a good walk from the = river, so=20 we moor and enjoy the walk. Thank goodness that it is still cooler, in = the=20 middle of summer it would not be pleasant as the scrub is all low growth = with=20 little shade. We may have only been on the river for a few days, but = already the=20 demands and regulations of =91normal=92 life have receded far into the = background.=20 It=92s Monday, at a tourist spot =96 of course it=92s the cook=92s day = off! A very=20 obliging bar attendant agrees to make us toasted sandwiches so all is = not lost,=20 and anyway the tour of the artefacts in the museum was well worth the = walk. At=20 Lock 3 we learn that Lock 5 (just below Renmark) is closed during the = week.=20 There is a 10 year maintenance regime where the gates are removed and = serviced,=20 and of course this is the year for that work.

We=20 estimate that we will need to =91waste=92 a couple of days at Berri, but = we have=20 been making really good time so are not worried by this. Next day we = head past=20 Loxton and on to Berri. Just upstream from Loxton we came across the = =91weeping=92=20 limestone cliff. On our return trip this cliff face was dry but you = could still=20 see the discolouration from the water. It was late as we approached = Berri, so we=20 decided on a bank mooring just out of town.

A local=20 was soon there to talk, and warn us of an aboriginal camp on the other = side of=20 the river that may cause us some nuisance. They must have also had a = long day as=20 all was silent before 9pm and we enjoyed yet another peaceful night. = There is a=20 very substantial wharf at the site of the old ferry crossing in Berri, = and we=20 made good use of it for the next couple of days whilst we did all the=20 =91housekeeping=92 chores. We had covered 514km of river, in 6 days. By = road it is a=20 mere 240kms and would only take 3 hours. It is hard to equate the 2, one = is just=20 the transit between 2 towns, the other is a whole new experience that = seems=20 totally removed from everyday life. At our current rate it is quite = possible to=20 make the notorious Bitch=92n=92pups (often the turn around-no way = through point=20 upstream from Mildura), or even 1198Km to Echuca =96 if you=92re going = to dream,=20 dream big.

In the=20 meantime we need to wait for the work on the lock to be completed. From = past=20 visits we know that there is a beautiful sandy beach just downstream = from Lock=20 5, so mid morning on Thursday we head for this intending to spend Friday = there=20 in the hope that we may be able to get through then. By now we have got = the=20 mooring lark down pat, but maybe it was the day=92s break at Berri, or = maybe just=20 because there is an audience, but this time we muff it =96 just a = little! Anyway=20 eventually we were tied up and Brian takes a stroll over the hill to see = what=92s=20 up at the lock. I don=92t even have time to make a cuppa before he is = back, the=20 work has gone smoothly and is finished for this week so they are = re-opening the=20 lock =96 now! Pack up, cast off and away we go. We make it through the = lock but=20 are too late for Paringa Bridge. This beautiful red iron = bridge=20 needs to be raised to let larger boats, and boats with masts, through. = But this=20 only happens at 9:30am and 2:30pm each day, it is now 4:00pm so we pull = into=20 Dix=92s park on the side of the river for the night. Brian sets the = camera up and=20 gets a Taswegian couple to take a photo of us on the boat amongst the = willows =96=20 it=92s a great shot and he is extremely proud of it. The weather had = been quite=20 cool with some gusty showers early in the trip, but in the upper river = it was=20 becoming quite mild. Imagine our surprise to be awakened that night by a = short=20 sharp shower, which of course dumped water through the open port hole = above the=20 bed. Before we could close the port hole, the shower ceased, only to = recommence,=20 briefly, a short time later. The third time it happened we realised that = the=20 beautiful green park was kept that way by sprinklers, which had come on = and some=20 of which were aimed at our boat. Okay, it did take us a while to work = out, but=20 it was the middle of the night.

Next day=20 we were in Renmark. I had always thought Renmark was a fairly bland sort = of=20 town, aesthetically speaking. As Brian=92s parents had lived there for a = few years=20 we did know it well. Entering the town from the river made it appear = totally=20 different, and far more picturesque. We catch up with some locals we = know well,=20 and get the =91goss=92 on the river flow. We are extremely lucky, not = only has there=20 been better than normal rainfall, but the River Murray Commission is = letting a=20 larger flow through. This means that the river levels are well up over = past=20 years, and time permitting we could even make Yarrawonga if we wanted to = =96 now=20 that=92s really dreaming big for a boat our size.

As we=20 leave Renmark the river changes yet again, admittedly it always appeared = to be=20 different, but so far there had been 3 =91sections=92 =96 the WWW (wall = to wall=20 willows) of the lower Murray, then the affluent holiday destinations of = large=20 shacks and houseboats with fantastic large cliffs up to Morgan. After = Morgan the=20 landscape was drier, the shacks and houseboats more =91battler=92 than = =91monied=92 but=20 still with frequent signs of man=92s occupation. Now we were entering a = 4-5 day=20 stretch of sparsely occupied territory without any towns until we reach=20 Wentworth in NSW. We also leave the area covered by the =93South = Australia=92s waters=20 : An atlas and guide=94 and will be totally reliant on the Renmark to = Yarrawonga=20 chart book. Even the waterway changes once you=92re over the border. The = NSW/Vic=20 border is on the Victorian side of the river, thus NSW controls the = actual=20 river. Here the law changes, private property extends to the water line = on the=20 NSW side, but there is a 60 metre =91crown land=92 on the Victorian = side. Our search=20 for mooring spots from hereon would largely be dictated by this so that = we did=20 not run the risk of trespass =96 in SA, despite the prevalence of signs = to the=20 contrary you are largely allowed to moor anywhere along the river banks. = Finally=20 the ever reliable and present navigational signs will also largely = disappear and=20 although you can take the water from the river it is against the law to = remove=20 any snags, making navigation even more hazardous!

As we left=20 Renmark the fine weather also seem to desert us. At Lock 6 we shared the = lift=20 with another boat, a houseboat whose occupants had no idea how to handle = the=20 lock conditions. For a while it looked like we would have their boat = float back=20 onto us as they tied the lines to the railings and walked away. = Fortunately we=20 attracted their attention and warned them of the hazard. Our last sign = of human=20 habitation for the next few days was the old Custom House at the = SA/NSW/Vic=20 border where we pulled in for a brief chat before sailing on into the = weather.=20 Bekita, by our choice, has open air steering as this is what we enjoy. = Now,=20 however, we are faced with a whole day of cold drizzly rain. I am lucky, = I can=20 retreat to the cabin, but Brian continues to steer the boat through the = weather=20 and is soon sopping wet, despite wet weather gear. We stop for an = extended lunch=20 and eventually the conditions moderated a little, one good thing about = the day=20 was the lack of flies, they had become extremely onerous over the last = few=20 days.

The next 2=20 days are smooth sailing, the weather becomes finer and eventually the = sun=20 re-appears. We are getting used to the feel of this stretch of the river = and the=20 scary narrow bends with snags aplenty are not so hard to navigate after = all. The=20 Victorian bank is mainly National Park (Murray_Sunset and = Hattah_Kulkyne) and=20 there are multiple spectacular camping spots along the river, most with = wide=20 sandy beaches. We had a couple of not so good moments, especially at = Warrakoo =96=20 an extremely shallow sandy area. It is not uncommon to cross this width = of the=20 river without getting you knees wet! This was one of the few areas that = actually=20 had navigational buoys, but unfortunately the department had decided to = save=20 money by purchasing the cheapest ones available, and they were = originally=20 yellow/orange. Normally markers are green (keep on your starboard = [right] when=20 going upstream) and red (keep on port [left]). However these critical = markers=20 had been painted green, which was peeling off. As I came around the = river bend I=20 was faced with a dog=92s breakfast of multi coloured buoys and I had no = idea where=20 to go. Of course I did the obvious thing =96 I told Brian it was all his = and left=20 him to it. After we bounced (softly) off the bottom a couple of times = Brian=20 backed off, considered his options and decided to ignore everything and = edge=20 along the bank, luckily for us it was the right decision and we were = soon under=20 way again.

This=20 section of river also gives rise to the Ana Branch waterway. Ana Branch = heads of=20 North East 500kms towards Menindee, thus creating a large island bounded = by the=20 rivers Murray & Darling and the Ana Branch. We cannot navigate this = at all,=20 but would love to, one day, take a tinnie up as far as we can. To have a = =91mother=20 ship=92 and a tinnie to explore the backwaters is probably the ultimate = way to=20 explore the entire Murray-Darling basin. It=92s also along this section = that the=20 digital camera decides to give up the ghost, a fact I discovered when = trying to=20 get a photo of one of the abandoned barges on the river bank. Back when = the=20 barrages and locks were built these barges were used to carry materials = and as=20 work platforms. When the task was complete they were stripped and left = to rot on=20 the river bank.

The next=20 day should see us at Lock 10, just downstream from Wentworth. As this is = at the=20 end of a day=92s range we decide to push a little harder to make sure we = make the=20 lock in time. In SA the locks are open from 8am to 4:30pm, you just turn = up and=20 toot for assistance. In NSW it works differently =96 the hours are the = same but=20 the openings are only on the hour, going downstream, and on the half = hour when=20 going upstream with the last upstream opening at 3:30. Thus to get = through the=20 lock that day we needed to be there before 3:30. We were looking good, = should=20 have been there with 10 minutes to spare, when disaster struck. We = noticed a=20 slight loss of power, thought we might have picked up some weed, but = then there=20 was a faint =91hot=92 smell. I dive into the cabin and open the front = engine cover =96=20 smoke billows out! Quickly Brian and I swap places, and on raising the = back=20 engine cover Brian quickly comes to the conclusion that the problem is=20 originating with the gear box. We head for the bank and moor as well as = we can=20 to evaluate the situation =96 it doesn=92t look good. The gearbox has = become locked=20 in first gear, there is a terrible squeal when the motor is turned over = and it=20 is almost glowing with the heat.

Brian=20 works at trying to free the gearbox and cooling off the motor for some=20 considerable time, to little effect. We soon come to the conclusion that = we need=20 expert help and will have to use the auxiliary to motor the last 22ks to = Wentworth. We were that close to civilization, but as we did not have a = CDMA=20 phone we

did not=20 have any contact, our efforts to use radio contact with the few passing = boats=20 was ineffective. If it had been a life threat situation we would have = had to=20 resort to using flares for assistance, it was quite sobering to realise = how=20 isolated you can be, even when physically close to assistance =96 = Wentworth would=20 have been only a matter of 5-8Ks as the crow flies. We decide to get an = early=20 start next morning, and for the first time instead of calm conditions we = have a=20 strong breeze blowing in the wrong direction. About 11am the wind swung=20 180=B0=20 so we=20 decided to give it a go. Cast off okay, the auxiliary was running = beautifully,=20 and we were away. When we get under way there are several long ropes = that have=20 to be stowed, a task we both share. This time, as we were a little = apprehensive=20 about the conditions, I was to handle all the ropes. As everything was = going so=20 smoothly Brian decided to help with the longest rope, which he normally = threw=20 one end of overboard before rolling up =96 a procedure he commenced, but = this time=20 he threw BOTH ends over! As it was a floating rope (as well as our = longest rope)=20 we had to recover it. On =91U=92 turn coming up, Brian manoeuvres the = boat right to=20 the middle of the rope which I retrieve with a boat hook. I now need to = bring it=20 all aboard quickly or the ends may become entangled in the outboard = propeller.=20 Drop the boat hook, instead of stowing it securely, you guessed it =96 = now that=92s=20 overboard! Another =91U=92 turn, this time under too much power and the = outboard=20 starts to scream even more than usual. We have broken the shear pin and = are no=20 longer under power. Stuff the boat hook, up comes the outboard and = running=20 repairs are quickly made whilst the current quietly carries us half a = kilometre=20 back past our mooring point. Motor back in the water, fingers crossed, = start up=20 and we are now under way without any further = deviations.

We are=20 pleasantly surprised by the speed we make, at least half our normal = speed with=20 the diesel motor, and it is against a strong current. We are still = concerned=20 that we may miss the last lock lift of the day so as soon as we get = mobile phone=20 coverage we start ringing the lock master to let him know that we are on = the=20 way, and that we have problems. This was the start of several days of=20 unbelievable help and co-operation. If ever you suffer a breakdown = Wentworth=20 would be the best place to have it.

The lock=20 master (Norm) not only waited until we got there, but had the gates open = so that=20 we could motor straight in. As the lift got under way we were soon = discussing=20 our problem, and how to go about fixing it. Norm advised us to go to the = town=20 wharf and moor behind the =91Ruby=92, and old paddle steamer undergoing = restoration.=20 We would be using the berth for the =91Coonawarra=92, a tourist paddle = steamer that=20 tours the river around Mildura-Wentworth, but she was not due for a few = days,=20 and hopefully we would be clear by the time she got back. Locals rotate = a=20 caretaker aboard the =91Ruby=92, we had no sooner tied up and the = current caretaker,=20 Eddie, was over to see what our problem was. Two minutes into the = conversation=20 and he hands Brian the keys to his new Toyota so that we can drive around to = see the=20 local mechanic. Corey, the mechanic, was out first thing in the morning = to see=20 what he could do. The gearbox has to come out and be taken to the = workshop for=20 further investigation, so Brian sets to work. In the meantime the local = Country=20 Music Festival has come to town and is setting up on the lawns, so we = have front=20 row seats to this, unfortunately when Corey returns at lunch time he has = to park=20 on the other side of the reserve and lug the (extremely) heavy gearbox = to his=20 utility. Late in the afternoon the verdict comes back =96 it=92s very = bad, far=20 beyond anything Corey can do, but Brian is welcome to borrow Corey=92s = ute and=20 take the gearbox to Mildura to see if they can help us=20 out.

Our=20 afternoon is not wasted, we spend it talking to residents and visitors = who all=20 want to know what our problem is, where did we come from, where are we = heading=20 and can they, please, have a look over the boat. All of which we are = happy to=20 accede to, the kids in particular were delightful- and extremely well = behaved.=20

After some=20 consideration we decide to purchase an outboard, we have not come all = this way=20 to turn around so soon.

A local=20 agent from Mildura will come down and advise us on the most appropriate = size,=20 etc. I leave Brian to handle all this as I have to return home for = Ashlee=92s (our=20 youngest grandchild) first birthday =96 and do the dreaded BAS = statement. Whilst=20 I=92m away Brian enjoys the local hospitality and offers of assistance = =96 including=20 free transport to Mildura and chasing up leads of people who may be able = to fix=20 the gearbox. It is not a simple process =96 the motor, with its inbuilt = gearbox,=20 is an old Bolinder marine diesel motor =96 they were manufactured in=20 Sweden until the 1950s when = the=20 company was taken over by Volvo and spare parts are non-existent. We = could=20 replace the whole setup, and that may have to be our last resort, but = we=92re=20 quite attached to the current setup (when it works) as it is quite = possibly the=20 last remaining Bolinder 1052 motor in a traditional boat in the world = =96 can=92t=20 possibly scrap that can you? Anyway all our efforts are to no avail, so = the new=20 outboard is purchased and fitted and a week after our breakdown we are = underway=20 again.

To jump=20 ahead nearly a year =96 that gearbox was rebuilt and installed, and = removed and=20 rebuilt and re-installed. Why? Well Brian discovered that we were = running in=20 reverse to go forward! Huh? In very simple terms propellers turn = clockwise and=20 anticlockwise to give you your direction =96 so if it is running = clockwise to=20 drive you forward, gearboxes change the direction to anticlockwise to = drive you=20 backwards. When we were travelling forwards our gearbox was running in = reverse,=20 and vice versa, can you imagine what would happen to your car=92s = gearbox if you=20 drove it always in reverse =96 well that=92s what happened to our = gearbox. When=20 Brian re-assembled the gearbox the first time he twigged to what was = probably=20 happening =96 and when we started to get metal shavings in the gearbox = oil after=20 only a few hours work he knew that the setup was wrong =96 so out it all = came=20 again and we had to find a new propeller, as we as run a few repairs on = the=20 gearbox. And in case you had forgotten, it is this which caused the = problem for=20 the previous owner, but unfortunately they did not realise the cause and = only=20 fixed the symptoms.

Just=20 upstream from Wentworth is the Abbotsford Bridge which needs 24hrs prior = notice to=20 be opened. Whilst awaiting the new motor Brian decided that he would = remove our=20 masts so that we did not have to worry about this =96 with the masts, = booms and=20 associated wires and ropes added to the normal conglomeration on the = deck we=20 more than ever resembled Steptoe=92s backyard. The outboard was mounted = off centre=20 and we were still using the rudder for direction. Added to this Brian = had to=20 move from the back of the boat (to adjust our speed), to the centre of = the boat=20 (to steer) so manoeuvring was now an interesting process. But practise = soon=20 taught us our limitations, even if it did not make us=20 perfect.

Through=20 Lock 11 and on into Mildura we go, here we raise our masts again and = look a=20 picture once more (or almost). We spend a delightful, sunny, warm day in = Mildura=20 with some members of our family; this is followed by another grey, = drizzly, wet=20 day =96 how quickly the weather changes. Mildura is also home to many of = the old=20 paddlesteamers that once travelled the length of the river, some still = do short=20 day trips whilst others are used as stationary =91eateries=92. It is = fairly=20 uneventful sailing upstream from Mildura, but gradually you go beyond = the=20 influence of the last lock and the river reverts back to a more natural, = untamed=20 river. There are more hazards noted on the charts, and some rather = dramatic=20 changes in the river since it was originally chartered in the = 19^th=20 century. At Tapaulin Cutting the signs go from 1000ks (from the river = mouth) to=20 1008ks in just a few hundred metres, and again at Retail Cutting takes = out the=20 section from 1028Ks to 1034Ks =96 on paper that day we covered 75Ks over = a very=20 windy section of river. To quote Brian =93It was so windy, the compass = got=20 dizzy!=94

Another=20 feature of this section is the appearance of small and large rocky reefs = =96=20 imagine reefs like the Port Noarlunga reef running half, and three = quarters, the=20 way across the river. Due to the increase in water flow those marked on = the=20 charts as just under the surface now have a good depth of water over = them,=20 making life easier. However those marked as just out of the water are = now just=20 under water and are those we need to watch for. Many of these reefs have = been=20 exposed for several years, and thus have small trees growing on them. = Now that=20 the rocks are submerged you can see where they are by the rows of = seedlings in=20 the water. The ones without trees are the real problem =96 you only find = them in 2=20 ways =96 firstly by noticing the turbulence in the water as it flows = over the=20 reef, and secondly by bumping into them! We had one =91thump=92 but = fortunately no=20 damage.

We=20 continue on our way, Brian is doing almost all the navigating in this = stretch=20 and is finding it quite draining. He has to concentrate totally all the = time as=20 this is our first experience in this part of the river and although the = charts=20 are very good they are not to scale and so lack some accuracy. = Eventually we=20 reach Lock 15 (locks 12-14 were never built, nor were16-25, 27-30 that = were=20 originally planned) and Robinvale. We were almost caught out at Lock 15, = at all=20 the other locks the lock master throws you a rope, at this one you have = to throw=20 a rope up to him =96 an of course we didn=92t have one ready. To = continue up river=20 we need to have the Robinvale Bridge opened, but to do this = they have to=20 cut off the water supply to the town, and they have other restrictions = as they=20 build a new bridge. It is all too complicated so we re-evaluate our = timeline and=20 decide that this will be our turn around point =96 this time! Not too = bad, we are=20 1123Ks from the river mouth in many ways it=92s kind of sad to be = turning back,=20 but we feel a great deal of satisfaction in making it that far. We had only made 24 Ks of the = return trip=20 when the dreaded miscalculation occurred. As we rounded a bend the wind = caused=20 the surface of the water to become choppy, we knew Success Reef was just = ahead,=20 by the chart it extended just over half way across the river, but we = could not=20 make out the turbulence. Then the wind dropped and the turbulence was = only a few=20 metres ahead of us. No time to stop, and if we tried to turn we would = probably=20 hit it broad side on, so Brian aimed for the least amount of = =91bubbling=92 that was=20 ahead.

=93Hold on!=20 I think we are in trouble=94

We were.=20 We hit with a bang and road up onto the rock. I dive into the cabin and = lift the=20 floor boards, anxiously scanning for any gushing water =96 thank = goodness for=20 small mercies, there isn=92t any. Okay, how do we get off? We try = everything that=20 we can, but we=92re not going anywhere. We are not willing at this stage = to get=20 into the water as there is a very strong current running, and we=92re = not yet=20 desperate enough to send up any SOSs. We spot a glint away on the ridge = =96 it=20 looks like sunshine glinting of a windscreen, so we cross our fingers. = After=20 what seemed an age one of the locals drives down to the river=92s edge = with a=20 =91tinny=92 on behind. Being a glorious day he had decided to take the = day off, and=20 on a flip of the coin had decided to go fishing instead of playing golf. = And=20 where was his favoured launching spot? Right next to Success Reef. He = (Steve)=20 hopes out of the car with a cheery =93In a spot of trouble, mate?=94 = =93Hold on I=92ll=20 give you a hand=94

He dives=20 back into his ute and comes out =85=85=85.. with a camera! Why is it = there is always a=20 camera when you don=92t want one! We are recorded for posterity and = Steve then=20 launches his boat to try and tow us off. After a short while it is = obvious that=20 he has =91Buckley=92s chance=92 Not a problem though =96 he is a member = of the local SES=20 and knows who to contact in this situation =96 we aren=92t the only ones = who have=20 got stuck on this reef.

Now the=20 SES arrives with their very serious boat. They commence trying to tow us = off the=20 reef =96 forwards, backwards, forwards again =96 but we are not going = anywhere.=20 Frustratingly we must have caught the last rock in the reef =96 at our = stern we=20 have 2mt of water, a few metres to the right we have 3mt and in front we = have=20 4.5mt. We can rock the boat backwards and forwards as well as from side = to side,=20 but we are jammed tight on top of the rock. Time for some new tactics = =96 Steve=20 turns tight =91donuts=92 at the rear of our boat =96 forcing his wash = under our keel,=20 2 large volunteers join Brian and I on the nose of our boat and we go = from side=20 to side causing the boat to rock, whilst the SES boat pulls from the = front. We=20 eventually began to notice some discernible progress, as the wash goes = under the=20 boat it gives a slight lift and each little bump takes us a bit further = over the=20 reef. After 3 hours we are eventually free and the SES tow us to the = bank so=20 that we can make any necessary running repairs before setting off yet=20 again.

The trip=20 back to Mildura was still demanding, but largely uneventful after that. = We got=20 into a routine where we would maintain our speed up to the hazards = (necessary to=20 give us steerage) and then I would cut the power so that we would float = higher=20 over the shallow spot before once again putting on power. With this = section of=20 the river behind us we felt a lot more relaxed, our only major concern = was for=20 Warrakoo (having had some difficulty there on the way = up).

We decide=20 to keep the masts up, so ring Wentworth Shire to arrange to have = Abbotsford = Bridge open for us at 9:30, = though we=20 would need to be there by 9:10 to guarantee the process. We are there in = plenty=20 of time, 9:40 comes and there is no sign of the bridge opening. We ring = the=20 Shire again =96 whoops they got 2 messages mixed up and thought we = wanted it=20 opened at 2:30 =96 wrong! Finally just after 10 the bridge opens and we = sail=20 through =96 normally they did not do 2 lifts in a month and this day = they had 2 in=20 a day, no wonder they got confused.

At=20 Wentworth we decide to explore as much of the River Darling as we can.=20 Unfortunately the height of the power lines along the river are not = listed in=20 the chart book, so we need to do some research before we start. Only = trouble is=20 no-one knows! They all look at the height of our masts and say =93I = don=92t know,=20 but you should be ok=94

Great! If=20 we hit one of these lines it will be more than embarrassing, it would = also be=20 extremely dangerous. However, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Once = again we=20 arrange for a bridge opening, this time the Wentworth Bridge and all goes well =96 for = us, but not=20 so for all the cars, buses and semis on the highway! When the bridge is = lowered,=20 it comes down crooked and will not lock back into place. We = disappear up=20 the river and round the bend with the traffic jam continuing to build = behind=20 us.

The Rive=20 Darling is completely different from the River Murray.=20 The=20 countryside is very flat and the river lacks the variety of form, such = as cliffs=20 or sandbars, as Brian puts it "It's as if the Good Lord had taken a team = of=20 bulldozer and cut a channel" - although not a very wide or straight one! = There=20 is no noticeable flow, and the result is much cleaner water. Lastly the = colour=20 was a beautiful jade green - not as a result of algae, it is just that = colour.=20 We had a late start due to rain and with some trepidation soon came upon = the=20 first power line crossing the river. Brian headed for the spot where the = gap to=20 the line was highest we made sure that we were not touching any metal = and slowly=20 edged closer. Brian was soon sure that we had clearance, I wasn't so = confident=20 until the line was behind us. The first line behind us we soon became = more=20 confident and successfully covered about 30Ks before mooring for the = night. We=20 decided that we would go as far as we could the next day before = returning to=20 Wentworth. We had spoken to Roma Jones (aboard the "Coorong Wanderer") = before=20 setting sail, they had made approx 70Ks before being stopped by fallen = trees and=20 we hoped to get that far. However, at 53Ks we were hailed from the = shore, at=20 Avoca station. We were invited to come and view the old homestead and = environs,=20 an invitation that we jumped at. The owners, Barbara and Ian Law have = done a=20 marvellous job of restoring the buildings. They now run Avoca as a = hospitality=20 and accommodation business. Ian Law was vaguely familiar to Brian and = when they=20 entered on of the rooms in the main homestead the penny dropped. Ian Law = was one=20 of the great VFL players back in the 1960s. He played for Hawthorn = premiership=20 team, as well as for the Victorian State Team. Australia Post even = struck a=20 stamp in his honour. Over coffee and conversation we were amused to find = out=20 that our fame had preceded us , they had already heard about our = stranding on=20 the Success Reef! 3 hours later we return to the boat, it is now too = late to=20 continue further up the river, so we decide to return to Wentworth. = Whoops! In=20 our haste to go ashore we had not only left both batteries = interconnected, we=20 had left the fridge running on 12 volt - result 2 flat batteries. = Luckily, as=20 part of Brian's better safe than sorry policy, we had purchased a=20 booster/thumper battery pack just before starting the trip. It soon had = us=20 mobile again and we then commenced to outrace an imminent thunderstorm = back to=20 Wentworth.

The=20 gate maintenance program had caught up with us. They were now working on = Lock 10=20 just downstream from Wentworth. Once again we had to go through the lock = at the=20 weekend, or wait an entire week for the next opening. The reports were = now of=20 reduced water flows, and as we had some tricky spots, especially = Warrakoo, to=20 cover before Renmark we were reluctant to waste that time. We were = anxious to=20 have Warooka behind us, so pushed through 80+ Ks the next day ready for = the=20 final stretch. Hearts in our mouths we rounded the last bend before = Warrakoo to=20 find that there had been 'action at the station' - the buoys had been = replaced=20 and the course was now clearly marked. It was a simple cross from the = Victorian=20 side to NSW side followed by a sharper cross back again. We were able to = relax=20 after that and really enjoy the trip back to the Old Custom House. We = stopped to=20 talk with the owners and told them of our problems with Warooka, they = then=20 promptly told us they had a photocopy of the updated course, in detail - = better=20 late than never?

Just=20 downstream from the Old Custom House there is the lonely grave of David = Wallace,=20 a teenage engineer who was buried in 1909. Local historians had written = his sad=20 story and attached it to the grave's surround. Unfortunately we were not = able to=20 read it - the mosquitoes were so bad that you could not stand still long = enough!

With=20 the more difficult sections behind us were able to slow down and enjoy = some=20 diversions, we were still conscious of the falling water (and the time = line to=20 Christmas) but the pressure was certainly off. We stopped of to explore = the WW2=20 Internment Camp at Woolenook Bend, almost all of the structures had = disappeared=20 but foundations, paved paths and Japanese garden remains were still very = evident. Back in Renmark again we spent time with friends and made a = sentimental=20 side trip up the Ral Ral Creek to scatter Brian's mother's ashes at one = of their=20 favourite fishing spots.

At=20 Moorook=20 we were able to catch up with Lester Creed, who used to run a dairy on=20 Cleland Gully=20 Road, and along with Lester and his partner = Helen=20 eventually get that lunch at Overland Corner - it was worth the wait. = The=20 stretch of river from there to Waikerie was, in my opinion, the most = picturesque=20 that we had seen. By now the warmer weather and longer days meant that = we were=20 seeing more activity on the river - more shacks were occupied, more = houseboats=20 were on the move and skiers, jet skis and speed boats were quite common. =

Once again we=20 moored opposite Murbpook Lagoon where Brian went bush with a wood saw. = He came=20 back with some posts which he dug well into the sand to make mooring = points. He=20 wasn't game enough to use them at that time, but we'll have to go back = and try=20 them some day. We cruised on down past Lock 1, stopping at most of the = towns=20 along the way, including Swan Reach. The view from the Swan Reach Hotel = must be=20 seen to be believed, it is one of the best - and the food was pretty = good as=20 well. At Bowhill we waited to watch the Murray Princess call in and then = followed her down river to Mannum. We tried to race her to the ferry = doing=20 12Kph, and losing. For the first time I saw a great use for a jet ski - = a group=20 of riders used the wake from the Princess to 'surf' - that looked like=20 fun.

Eventually we=20 arrived in Murray=20 Bridge. Despite = the=20 dropping water flow the wind on that day meant that the river level was = actually=20 up on the level when we came up river. Given the small amount of = clearance we=20 had on that occasion we were a little concerned that the masts would be = too=20 high. We gingerly went under the road bridge then headed for a small = wharf prior=20 to the rail bridge, which is lower than the road bridge. Once at the = wharf I=20 went ashore with a very long rope. Brian then drifted towards the rail = bridge=20 trusting that I would be able to stop the boat if it looked as if we = were going=20 to hit the structure. With only a few feet to go I eventually saw = daylight=20 between the top of the mast and the bottom of the bridge - we were going = to make=20 it, what a relief. My great-great grandfather was the first white = settler in=20 this area when it became known as Edwards Crossing. Decided to find out = where=20 the original homestead was, and the exact point for this crossing. It = wasn't as=20 easy as I thought it would be, but eventually I was able to find what I = was=20 looking for, I was left with the impression that Murray = Bridge values its development = more than=20 its history. One absolutely great development is the mooring area = adjacent to=20 the park, it is not only unrestricted but even supplies 240v power to = those who=20 want it.

Since leaving=20 Lock 1 we had been procrastinating our return home, using the weather as = a=20 reason not to move. We had encountered some rain, some heat and even a=20 spectacular thunderstorm whilst at Mannum but were now at the end of the = road.=20 Arriving at Tailem Bend we realised that strong winds were imminent, and = that=20 our best chance of crossing the lake was early the next morning. Once = more we=20 had to move quickly, or wait up to another week =96 it was getting to be = a very=20 familiar story. We covered that stretch without any problems to arrive = at=20 Clayton for a last stopover, a stopover that was to last 4 days. Those = strong=20 winds arrived, and although we could have made Goolwa we were reluctant = to face=20 entering the marina in those conditions with only the outboard for = manoeuvring.=20 To make matters worse I had run out of reading materials and Clayton = does not=20 offer a great deal of new experiences. After walking the streets each = day, twice=20 each day, I feel I got to know it very well indeed. Eventually, 9 weeks = to the=20 day, we moored back at our berth to finish our = trip.

Thankfully=20 the highlights far outnumbered the mishaps many times over! Both Brian = and I=20 agree that this was probably the best holiday that we had ever had - and = that=20 includes Brian going to Antarctica (I = think).=20 Besides having a great time it was also one of the cheapest holidays = ever - so=20 long as you ignore the capital costs which I keep re-assuring myself are = still=20 appreciating in value.

Would I=20 recommend it to others? Without hesitation, if you ever get the chance = =96 DO IT.=20 We relied on information from the internet when planning our trip, and = Brian=20 continues to monitor the river this way. We were very lucky that we went = last=20 season, with the dry year that has prevailed over the catchment this = year there=20 is little doubt that we would never have got as far this year, but maybe = next=20 year, or the next, or..........